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The Great North Road

— June 16, 2011


Making videos from a bicycle! It’s challenging! These edits are a bit rough. (I’m actually being kind of rude, holding everyone up to upload!) I expect when I have more time I’ll re-edit, but as it stands, we have miles to make. Burundi calls!

The music is by a Zambian musician, Dali Soul. I hear he’s a cool dude ;). Most of his music, including this song, promote progressive causes. The lyrics are mostly in Nyanja. This song, if it’s not very clear, promotes condom usage. HIV / AIDs and other STIs are a big problem. You see signs everywhere yet the infection rate exceeds 10%.

The English manor is called Shiwa Ng’andu. It’s in the middle of nowhere, miles off the main road on a dirt track. The two historical photos are by C&J Harvey.

Once again, it was all the wonderful people who welcomed us into their homes, truck stops, back yards and huts, they made this so worthwhile. Thank you!

To Cycle the Great North Road

— June 7, 2011

A day’s ride on the GNR. Hard to describe. Most the time it’s absolutely banal. But sometimes, like when the trucks pass each other and you have take a detour into a ditch, or when you’re riding after dark and you have no idea what crevasse lies ahead in the abyss, riding these roads can be absolutely terrifying.

the road is barely two lanes wide

the road is barely two lanes wide

i.e. the trucks are intimidating

i.e. the trucks are intimidating

this photo typifies the extent of Zambian road repair

this photo typifies the extent of Zambian road repair

Zambian bikes aren't spic and span, but it's incredible what they manage to haul. Yesterday we saw three people and a live rooster.

Zambian bikes aren't spic and span, but it's incredible what they manage to haul. Yesterday we saw three people and a live rooster.

sand is uncomfortable, I dare say

sand is uncomfortable, I dare say

this is rural Africa

this is rural Africa

if nothing else, there are epic beautiful trees here

if nothing else, there are epic beautiful trees here

the road is barely two lanes widei.e. the trucks are intimidatingthis photo typifies the extent of Zambian road repairZambian bikes aren't spic and span, but it's incredible what they manage to haul. Yesterday we saw three people and a live rooster.sand is uncomfortable, I dare saythis is rural Africaif nothing else, there are epic beautiful trees here

True but hard to comprehend: The Great North Road is the one only single road servicing the couple million residents of Central and Northern Zambia. This is Zambia’s I95 – most everything else is a dirt track.

On the Great North Road

— June 7, 2011

A legacy of empire – the Great North Road was built by imperial Britain in a grand attempt to connect Cairo to Cape Town, to bring the three Cs, commerce, Christianity, civilization, to the inner depths of the British Empire. Today the Great North Road isn’t so great – it’s but two lanes, with no shoulder and potholed. But for hundreds of miles around, it is the single best road. Giant trucks, often covered in people, transit goods from Zambia’s heartland to Tanzania. Closer to Lusaka, Zambia’s capital, there are commercial farms but mostly the country is nothing but subsistence farming and bush.

the road started off nice but busy

the road started off nice but busy

then it really deteriorated

then it really deteriorated

John, foreground, kindly let us stay at his place. The village crackhead, Greg, and John's nephew are in the background.

John, foreground, kindly let us stay at his place. The village crackhead, Greg, and John's nephew are in the background.

fix a flat tire

fix a flat tire

and meet a true life gangsta

and meet a true life gangsta

wherever you stop, it's impossible not to be inundated by African kids

wherever you stop, it's impossible not to be inundated by African kids

Ben was very happy to have been cured.

Ben was very happy to have been cured.

green and yellow!

green and yellow!

It was a dance to remember...

It was a dance to remember...

summiting Danger Hill - in comparison to other roads it was actually very safe

summiting Danger Hill - in comparison to other roads it was actually very safe

staying hydrated... crucial!

staying hydrated... crucial!

yet again rural Africa is like the Wild West

yet again rural Africa is like the Wild West

the road started off nice but busythen it really deterioratedJohn, foreground, kindly let us stay at his place. The village crackhead, Greg, and John's nephew are in the background.fix a flat tireand meet a true life gangstawherever you stop, it's impossible not to be inundated by African kidsBen was very happy to have been cured.green and yellow!It was a dance to remember...summiting Danger Hill - in comparison to other roads it was actually very safestaying hydrated... crucial!yet again rural Africa is like the Wild West