It really is quite amazing. The father to most powerful person in the world grew up in a hut on the other side of the world. Who would’ve thought? From here, Kogelo, Kenya?

Barack Obama still has family in Kogelo, namely his grandmother, Sarah Hussein Obama. By American standards she is his step grandmother, but by African tradition she is his grandmother. She raised his father. After his undergrad, when President Obama went to Kenya, it was her home in Kogelo he visited.

Her home is like that of many grandmothers, decorated with the grandkids’ achievements. In this case, senatorial and presidential campaign advertisements. Most are signed by the President, with a note addressed to Granny Sarah.

I had the honor of briefly speaking to her, through a family member who helps out, translating and organizing her business. I asked to what she attributed Barack’s success. She replied that it is a great thing, so great it can only be attributed to God’s hands. She said that he has much work left. There is not yet peace on earth. She hoped that during his presidency we would all become better at living with one another.

Obama’s grandma – she keeps it real.

Her life, and the village’s, has changed dramatically. A couple months back Al Qaeda said they were going to assassinate her.  Regardless, most days she receives visitors. The government built a police station to protect her. The primary and secondary school are named after Barak Obama. The road is getting paved. They’re building a welcome center and small guest house for the President’s impending visit. Funny the turns chance takes.

in Kogelo, the Obama's ancestral village

they're building a new road for Obama's September visit

downtown kogelo - yes we can!

the obama welcome center and new road

Granny Sarah Obama

man on the right is the local chairman - he was the first Kenyan politician invited stateside by Obama

the primary school is also named after Obama

South-eastern Uganda. A hundred mile bike ride sounds like a long one – unless you’ve been biking for thousands. To Kampala I rode mostly on a dirt track. It was the largest road within 20 miles. It was surprisingly poor, tightly packed with people. (Hard to find quiet places to pee – a good measure of population density!) There was no electrification. I saw three secondary schools.

south eastern Uganda was surprisingly poor

making the chapati at night

there was no electricity in this town

everyone gathered around the movie theater - a 10 inch screen powered by a putput

motorbikes are an important form of transport

as African bicycles are single speeds they push up hill

source of the nile!!!

not actually the source - the real one is in Burundi

the Nile at sunset

nile take two

near Jinja, Uganda

I was cycling along and whaddya know but ahead of me was a tractor. A tractor!  I hadn’t seen a tractor in months. Wow! A tractor!!! Kenya had all sorts of golden nuggets. Paved country roads (not just the highways, and yes, plural, as in multiple!), food that was more than simple starches and mangy meat, a decent level of English comprehension, even buildings that were ten, maybe fifteen stories high. Kenya has had a stable (if autocratic) market orientated government (kind-of) since independence. You see that.

Though, Kenya is not America. The roads are potholed, most buildings in a state of disrepair and unemployed youth abundant. Lake Victoria is the most tragic. There used to be fish. There used to be ferries that would go as far as Uganda and Tanzania. Today the lake is carcinogenic. That night I camped out in a dilapidated lakeside hotel. I was comfortable, with a cold brewski in a cushy chair. An Indian businessman told me, “All the fish are gone. It’s pathetic – these people don’t even care.” And there’s little else to do but sit back, enjoy the beer, observe, listen and await the next racist comment.

near Kitale, Kenya

could almost be Wisconsin

downtown Eldoret, Kenya's fifth largest city, home of its famously fast runners

just look at all that development! Eldoret, Kenya

a tea estate

Kapsabet, Kenya

downtown Kisumu, Kenya's third largest city

100 years development, nevermind that the sign is falling apart

abandonded dock on Lake Victoria, Kisumu, Kenya

Lake Victoria is now carcinogenic. The fish are mostly all dead.

after school transport

thoughout Africa, school childern are in uniform, prim and proper

southeastern Kenya

near Obama's village, Kogelo, Kenya

South Sudan. It was real. It’s hard to say that little, harder to attempt an honest telling of our journey.

That week was epic. Excitement was in the air – literally flags fluttered from atop trees, mountains, pickups and people, there was celebratory honking, singing, fireworks and gunfire. It was a beautiful experience to behold.

And then you were forced to reckon with what South Sudan is, barely a nation. Less than 5% graduate from primary school. Tribalism rules; the government is weak. There is little to unite the people, many do not speak a common language.

A few people seemed violent. It’s hard to explain. You just got that sense. You would look at them and they would look back at you stone cold without expression or acknowledgment. It was like a poker face but probably more aptly described as a 50 year civil war face.

In South Sudan, you see how far we’ve come. You see what it means to be a nation. And how very important that struggle is, to do the necessary maintenance, that we remain one people, indivisible.

few roads in South Sudan are paved

it's a landscape of desert and verdant flood plains

UN helicopters ply the skies

there was sometimes a roughness in their character, a palpable violent edge

but others were extremely friendly

everywhere flags

more flags on cars per capita than anywhere else on earth

landmines! how exciting!

rolling into Juba - a paved road! rejoice!

independence was an occasion - excitement radiated

at South Sudan's first soccer game

South Sudan lost to Kenya's Tuskers, but it was a good showing

roadside stop. unlike most African shops, this one sold Pepsi!

everyone has to get their cell phone on

the dirt tracks were a joy to ride one

joyful youth; there is hope

Richard sent us this panorama of Zambia’s only harbor at Mpulungu.
download high res panorama

In Juba, South Sudan, the pastor kindly let us stay in this classroom. But we had to be up early – it was in use by 8am for Sunday School! The Church plays a big role in developing nations. In large towns the compound may contain a small seminary, guest house, kitchen and conference facilities. Many schools and clinics are also run through churches.

All Saints Cathedral

School room we slept in

the interior - sleeping mats were placed by the table

the cathedral

friendly kids

future of the world's newest nation

the cathedral's fence! with signs!