Kapoeta, South Sudan. Never mind that half the building was blown out and the walls were peppered with bullet holes, we were lounging in the restaurant to the town’s finest hotel and we were going to enjoy ourselves. A couple more beers, then we would camp in a local businessman’s backyard. Before we could leave though, a man wearing a yellow Hawaiian shirt announced, “I am from the government. These two are my responsibility. Nothing bad will happen to them.” It was arranged that we would stay in the hotel. Awkward, but okay. Not okay, and way more awkward, two hours later Ben was at the bottom of a twenty foot hole screaming for help. read more…

South Sudan. It was real. It’s hard to say that little, harder to attempt an honest telling of our journey.

That week was epic. Excitement was in the air – literally flags fluttered from atop trees, mountains, pickups and people, there was celebratory honking, singing, fireworks and gunfire. It was a beautiful experience to behold.

And then you were forced to reckon with what South Sudan is, barely a nation. Less than 5% graduate from primary school. Tribalism rules; the government is weak. There is little to unite the people, many do not speak a common language.

A few people seemed violent. It’s hard to explain. You just got that sense. You would look at them and they would look back at you stone cold without expression or acknowledgment. It was like a poker face but probably more aptly described as a 50 year civil war face.

In South Sudan, you see how far we’ve come. You see what it means to be a nation. And how very important that struggle is, to do the necessary maintenance, that we remain one people, indivisible.

few roads in South Sudan are paved

it's a landscape of desert and verdant flood plains

UN helicopters ply the skies

there was sometimes a roughness in their character, a palpable violent edge

but others were extremely friendly

everywhere flags

more flags on cars per capita than anywhere else on earth

landmines! how exciting!

rolling into Juba - a paved road! rejoice!

independence was an occasion - excitement radiated

at South Sudan's first soccer game

South Sudan lost to Kenya's Tuskers, but it was a good showing

roadside stop. unlike most African shops, this one sold Pepsi!

everyone has to get their cell phone on

the dirt tracks were a joy to ride one

joyful youth; there is hope

- There were bandits.
- Spencer saw his first squirrel since Zimbabwe.
- Ben fell down a 20ft hole. (He’s okay.)

Today was 130k on rough rolling pot holed dirt road. Now we’re safely in Kenya. It’s nice.

The alarm is set for 5am. Ahead is the most challenging road of our journey. We leave Juba, tracking east into Kenya. The road will be rough and hot. Water will be scarce. It may rain turning road to river. Eastern South Sudan and northern Kenya are no man’s lands where the nation state is more an idea than something put into practice. Cattle raiding is common. Primary education isn’t.

The pavement resumes in Lodwar, capital of Kenya’s Rift Valley province, about 370 miles from Juba. We hope to be there in six days, but the desert sun and terrible road conditions may force us to shorten days. We may have to bush camp. We will be forced to be self sufficient. Everyday we will start with 20 liters, about 50 pounds, of water and enough food for two days. It’s going to be a challenge.

Luckily, the past couple days have been energizing. We came into Juba encrusted in sweat and starving. We found fellowship with Ryan and Kristen who work in South Sudan with Mission Aviation Fellowship, who help people by flying over the rotted roads. (Much more sensible than bicycling…) Though they have a ten month old son, Caleb, and we were disheveled dirty strangers, they took us in and gave us food and internet and showers. Much can be said how South Sudan lacks comfort and security and yet here in Juba there is a family that can only be described as loving.

We have been surprised how similar so much of Africa seems. A photo of a roadside store in Zimbabwe would be indistinguishable from one of South Sudan. Ahead of us lie the peoples of Lake Turkana. We’re excited to see how the tribal societies compare. We’re also intimidated by reports from last month warning of banditry. I’m curious to see how well I can maintain my health in such adverse conditions. My feet and knee are covered in umpteen dozen red spots. (Bug bites???) By the time we’re back on a road proper, we’ll find ourselves in the Great Rift Valley, the birthplace of mankind.

For more photos of our travels through South Sudan, check out our Google+ Album.
(Though we may be in one of the world’s  least developed lands, we do embrace the most developed photo viewing techniques.)

I told the security guard we had bicycled up from South Africa. Ah! South Africa! You must have faced many challenges. Yes, we have faced many challenges. I then congratulated him on his nation’s independence. Yes today is a great day. We were up in those hills when the Sudanese army came. It was a big battle. Oh. You have faced many challenges too. Yes we have faced many challenges.

Welcome to South Sudan, the world’s newest nation, where the soldiers at check points have not only assault rifles and cammo but also decorative scars. There is a genuine palpable excitement. More waving flags per square car than anywhere else on earth. Here’s a few quick couple photos of the first national football game, South Sudan vs Kenya. Unfortunately South Sudan lost, 1-3, but it was yet a good showing.

there was no admission fee - crowds gathered atop the stadium walls

a packed patriotic crowd

watching the game

for South Sudan!

Kenyan national team

South Sudan's flag

they thought I was media; I got on the field

the coaches

South Sudan national team

new friend Pilgrim with number 2

end of the game media frenzy

offical team portraits