Richard sent us this panorama of Zambia’s only harbor at Mpulungu.
download high res panorama

It took me three days to upload this video… Someday (maybe stateside) it’ll come to you in the full HD glory that was intended. Meantimes, I hope you enjoy!

Music >>>>
The Blue Danube composed by Johann Strauss.
When Morning Came written by Tim Durian and performed by the Trolleys. thetrolleysband.com
Every Dog Has It’s Day written and performed by Flogging Molly. floggingmolly.com

Lake Tanganyika!

We took the MV Liemba from Mpulungu in Zambia to Kigoma in Tanzania. It was insane. When we go on a cruise, we expect sunsets and pretty scenery. This, however, is the MV Liemba: yelling, banging, crying babies, chickens, people sleeping on top of cargo, people sleeping on people.

the MV Liemba

it was an unbelievable voyage, so much stuff on one boat, utlizing only canoes and a little crane

sunset n' cargo!

there were two lifeboats for 1600 people

A TV crew for the History Channel rented out the top deck. It was the only nice place on board because no one else was supposed to be up there.

Sunrise over our destination, Kigoma, Tanzania.

The MV Liemba is not for the claustrophobic!

on the second day, after it got just insane, women and childern were allowed to sleep on the floor of the 1st and 2nd class deck

the hallways were a mosh pit of sweat, mud and maize

3rd class was crowded. there were no beds, they just slept on top of each other

the main deck - nothing was strapped down, people slept on cargo, people slept on our bikes

the door in front of our 2nd class cabin was a puddle of mud, maize and unknown. people would walk barefoot, they slept on that floor.

there were no docks - canoes would tie up to the ship and people would climb onboard

the door in the boat people would climb / slash / push though to get onboard

it was crazy

the images speak for themselves

It was an experience. Especially as a TV crew from the History Channel rented out the boat, kind of, and were very happy to use their power as they pleased. I learned a lot. I’ll write more later.

Making videos from a bicycle! It’s challenging! These edits are a bit rough. (I’m actually being kind of rude, holding everyone up to upload!) I expect when I have more time I’ll re-edit, but as it stands, we have miles to make. Burundi calls!

The music is by a Zambian musician, Dali Soul. I hear he’s a cool dude ;). Most of his music, including this song, promote progressive causes. The lyrics are mostly in Nyanja. This song, if it’s not very clear, promotes condom usage. HIV / AIDs and other STIs are a big problem. You see signs everywhere yet the infection rate exceeds 10%.

The English manor is called Shiwa Ng’andu. It’s in the middle of nowhere, miles off the main road on a dirt track. The two historical photos are by C&J Harvey.

Once again, it was all the wonderful people who welcomed us into their homes, truck stops, back yards and huts, they made this so worthwhile. Thank you!

We found Richard! Amiably lounging on the shores of Lake Tanganyika! The airline found his bicycle and he got himself to a far end of the world, to Mpulungu, Zambia. Today we catch the MV Limba in an attempt to cross Lake Tanganyika and enter Tanzania. It’s been trolling these waters on and off for a century. It even sank and was then reconstructed. No one knows when it leaves or how much it costs but today looks to be our lucky day.